We were on the road to Biskra, the "Queen of the Desert." Sand, sand everywhere, as we looked across the dreary spaces as far as the eye could reach. Frequently the monotony was relieved by the long lines of caravans passing to and fro; they were picturesque and poetical; they moved with stately motion and graceful swing across the background of never-ending and often shifting sand.

Had this been our only experience with the Camels which compose the caravans, we would have returned with glowing accounts and waxed eloquent over these beasts of burden. We would have assured our friends of their patience and fortitude and with growing enthusiasm described the showy trappings and effective poses which charmed us on the desert road. But alas! We came to know the Camel well at close range and truly "familiarity breeds contempt."

The Camels about Biskra were the long-legged variety commonly called Dromedaries. They had but one hump and averaged from about six and one-half to seven and one-half feet in height; and from muzzle to tip of tail they measured ten or eleven feet. While the majority were of a light sandy color, it was not impossible to find a white, grey, brown or even black Camel, but a black Camel was held in great contempt by the Arabs. The hair was irregular in length and almost woolly in places. The callouses, large and prominent, were found on the breast and joints of the legs, making cushions for the beast to rest upon when lying down or kneeling. These callous places, scarcely showing at birth, grow with advancing age.

It is true that these animals, ungainly and uncouth at near view, are indispensable to the Arab of the desert; but all their generations of domestic life have failed to cultivate in their stupid minds any affection or care for their masters.

Their obedience is passive and their apparent patience only stupidity, for they are unamiable, obstinate and disagreeable.

The Camel varies nearly as much as do the horses of our own country. There are many grades and degrees from the ordinary baggage Camel to the high toned thoroughbred which corresponds to our high-class race horse. These racing Camels are long-legged and long-necked, the hump stands upright; is conical in shape and covers about one-fourth of the length of the body; the head is rather short, the eyes large and dull, and the ears very small but mobile. The hair is especially fine and soft.

A friend of ours who owned a fine saddle Camel was able to make from eighty to ninety miles a day if his Camel was well fed and watered and was allowed a rest at noon. This pace he was able to continue without injury for three or four consecutive days, and after a well earned rest he could repeat the journey.

A baggage Camel, carrying a load of perhaps three hundred pounds, would not make over thirty miles a day, but could often march twelve hours or longer without rest. However, a man of position would never condescend to ride on a baggage Camel.

Our friend told us that in buying saddle Camels for our desert ride we would be obliged to pay about sixty-five dollars each, and that we must look for those with soft backs, those which did not require the whip and would not cry when getting up or lying down. But he added that with these excellent traits we must not expect too much, for the best Camel was capable of every fault associated with a vicious disposition. And, indeed, when, some days later, our favorite Camel, when passing an Arab riding a donkey, turned his head suddenly and gave the mans arm a vicious bite, we were well satisfied that our friends estimate of the Camels disposition was absolutely correct. The wound inflicted by our animal was very severe, as the bite of a Camel usually is. We sought our friends aid in adjusting the matter and he related some of his experiences with this ungrateful animal.