The fruit of the wild growing plants is small and the seeds exceedingly bitter, hence the cultivated cocoa is preferred. The seeds are prepared in two ways, fermented and unfermented. In the former the seeds are placed in heaps in holes in the earth, in boxes or barrels, covered with leaves. In the course of four or five days they begin to "sweat" or undergo a mild form of fermentation. During this time the seeds must be stirred about occasionally. At the close of the sweating process most of the bitterness is gone and they have lost about one-half in weight. Afterwards the seeds are rapidly dried in the sun or in ovens. The fully dried seeds have a rich brown color. The following are the more important market varieties of fermented cocoa:

1. Mexican or Soconusco Cocoa — Seeds rather small, delicate flavor and of a golden yellow color. Since Mexico does not produce sufficient cocoa for home consumption this variety is rarely exported. This and the following varieties are said to be derived from Theobroma bicolor, Th. angustifolium and Th. ovolifolium.

2. Esmeralda Cocoa — Similar to the Mexican; somewhat darker in color.

3. Guatemala Cocoa — Seeds large, with mild flavor.

4. Caracas Cocoa — From Venezuela. Color pale brown, with a mild, agreeable flavor. Usually coated with a film of soil due to their being buried in the earth during the sweating process. A very highly priced variety.

5. Guayaquil Cocoa — From Ecuador. Seeds flattened, somewhat wedge-shaped, wrinkled, reddish brown. An excellent variety.

6. Berbice Cocoa — From British Guiana. Seeds small, externally gray, internally reddish brown.

7. Surinam and Essequibo Cocoa — Seeds rather large and more firm; externally a loamy gray, internally deep reddish brown. Taste somewhat bitter.

The unfermented cocoa, also known as sun cocoa and island cocoa, is dried rapidly without fermenting. It is of a beautiful reddish brown color and, a bitter astringent taste. The following are the principal varieties:

1. Brazilian (Para, Bahia) Cocoa — Seeds smooth, wedge-shaped, flattened. One edge nearly straight, the other convex.

2. Cayenne Cocoa — Quite hard, externally grayish brown, internally purplish red.

3. Antilles Cocoa (Island Cocoa) — Of this there are the following varieties: A. Trinidad cocoa, with large, flat, almost black brown seeds; B. Martinique cocoa, with elongated, flattened, reddish brown seeds; C. St. Domingo cocoa, with small, flattened, dark purplish brown seeds.

Cocoa requires considerable care in cultivation. A moist atmosphere and uniform temperature of about 24 to 28 degrees C., with considerable shade, is best suited. The tall variety of banana and the tree-like Erythrina Corallodendron are the more common shade plants. The plants are grown from seeds which begin to germinate in eight days. The trees begin to bear fruit in about four years. More usually eight to ten years elapse before any considerable fruit is borne. Two crops are collected annually. It is stated that there is on an average only one fruit to every 3,000 flowers.